Tying Unsinkable Dry Flies
This blog will take off where the book "Unsinkable Dry Flies" left off, listing new and different ways to tie flies by attaching a air bubble to the hook. The flies displayed may be imitations of flies found in other reference materials or something completely unique. If you have a new idea email us, we will endeavor to post it on the Blog with your credit.
Friday, September 21, 2012
Sunday, February 19, 2012
1. A pressing table
5. Netting or Polypropylene (PP) Hair
6. Polyethylene foam sheeting
7. Alcohol ink for additional coloring
8. Teflon Pressing Pad
After the sandwich has cooled complexly peal back one side of the Heat-n-Bond. Then peal the other side from the fold to remove the backing from the now completed wing material.
The finished material will look some thing like this or these other examples we have made (see below). If you do not use the polyethylene sheeting, as we did above, you should add another sandwich layer of Heat-n-bond to provide sufficient strength and prevent the wing material from tearing. It should be noted that you can also add glitter, flash, tinsel, or other attractor materials to make the finished wings more luminous.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Friday, December 9, 2011
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Recipe Wonder Bug
Hook: Any brand 4X long size 6 to 12 with a fine wire, having as wide a gape as possible or a Mustad 3261
Thread: Purple 6/0 (70 denier) or larger (Metallic Thread if available)
Body: Purple Heat Shrink 1/8 or 3/16 diameter colored with pens: Note other sizes can be used with smaller hooks. Tan foam.
Legs: Medium to fine speckled white rubber centipede leg material
Post: White Heat Shrink or Polypropylene Yarn
Wing: Saddle light blue dun
1. Cut a single or two twin sections of Heat Shrink as long as the hook shank plus at least a 1/8 inch. Note: Twin sections are used when using smaller Heat Shrink.
2. Cut a section of tan foam approximately the same width as the Heat Shrink.
3. Cover the hook shank with thread.
4. Attach the heat shrink at the rear of the hook one section at a time using at least three thread wraps. Use heat to pinch the heat shrink to the hook shank.
6. Attach the heat shrink and foam at the eye using at least three thread wraps. Use heat to pinch the heat shrink to the hook shank and finish forming the air bubble.
7. Seal the thread at the hook eye with head cement or super glue. Trim off any excess foam and heat shrink.
8. Attach the centipede legs in a crossing pattern between the foam and hook shank. Note: legs can be added at the rear and eye anchor point with thread when attaching the foam and heat shrink. This will place them farther apart as shown in the pictures above.
9. Cement the legs in place with super glue if you use the crossing pattern.
10. Add the Heat Shrink or PP post and take 6-8 wraps around the light blue dun or white saddle parachute style. Seal the thread at the hook eye with super glue. 11. Tails and antenna can be added but do not seem to improve the patterns performance.
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Thursday, December 9, 2010
I've got an idea for you. Would it be possible to use clear heat shrink tubing, and (using a hooked needle or something) pull colored dubbing through the tube before shrinking it? Would that be a way to add color? It'd still float because of the air trapped within the dubbing, and you could get really creative with the colors.
This is a good idea Matt -- Thanks for the suggestion
Something else tiers may want to experiment with is using dye or ink inside of clear heat shrink tubing. We have been playing with this for some time using alcohol ink from Adirondac with some excellent results (See Picture Below). To accomplish coloring the inside use small bottles of Adirondac ink and place the tube over the bottle spout and suck the ink inside by using the tubing like a straw. After coloring set the tubing aside and let it dry.
There are several advantages to the dye or ink method of coloring; One is cost, it is more cost effective to purchase one large roll of clear vs. several feet of a colored heat shrink; two, clear polyolefin heat shrink is lighter than most colored tubing -- clear has a specific gravity of less than one, usually around .91-.93, meaning it floats even without trapped air inside -- while most colored polyolefin heat shrink will sink because its specific gravity is more than one, up to 1.5 in some cases; and three, colors are generally more vivid and do not come off as some coloring will on the outside of the tubing over time or use.